This morning I used the above video in my class (sedimentology for the third-year undergraduate students) to explain how standing waves look like and behave in natural environment (instead of flumes in the lab). Thanks a million for posting this video to Youtube. Our students looked so surprised to see such an unusual stuff in the unexpected place with lots of surfers. You are a hero!
I also found an article of the above standing waves in Hawaii written by one of the surfers in the video:
The above article explains why these large standing waves were produced on the coast of the Waimea Bay, Hawaii.
Posted on Thursday 7 June 2012